Thinking Beyond the Frame
Thinking Beyond the Frame
A very brief look into unveiling racial aesthetics, beauty, and design through eyeglasses
Greetings! As we gear up for a well-deserved fall break, I find myself eager to delve into a topic that has been occupying my thoughts during my grad school research—racial aesthetics, beauty, and the often-overlooked but significant element, the nose bridge. Join me in this week's newsletter as I share insights into my journey of understanding design, racism, bias, inequity, and sexism within the industry.
When I initially embarked on my research, my curiosity led me to question the very essence of the design industry. I pondered why it looks the way it does, both physically and racially, and how I could contribute positively. Despite my eight years in the industry, these questions persist, particularly in exploring how design intersects with societal issues.
These objects, such as eyeglasses, play a role in shaping perceptions of beauty and race. I became intrigued by the customization of eyeglasses, especially the nose bridge, and how it impacts one's experience of beauty and identity.
My exploration led me to the study of physiognomy and the book "Making The Body Beautiful" (1999), delving into the history of aesthetic surgery and its enduring impact on society. Physiognomy, although not in use today, played a role in defining racial aesthetics, particularly concerning the African nose. This brings us to the present, where eyeglasses, despite their centuries-long existence, still lack comprehensive racial inclusivity in design.
This book delves into the history of aesthetic surgery, exploring its beginnings and its profound impact on society. Written in 1999, its relevance to today's aesthetics is uncanny, emphasizing that aesthetics never truly die. The book draws a clear distinction between aesthetic and reconstructive surgery, highlighting the quest for control over one's appearance and its impact on desire, character, and credibility.
Connected to black faces and bodies, physiognomy made assumptions about one's character based on their nose, with the African nose deemed the least beautiful due to its association with apes. In my quest to understand eyeglass design, I discovered the poignant discrimination faced by the nose, which prompted me to examine companies like REFRAMD—a black-owned glasses company founded in 2020 that prioritizes larger nose bridge options and shapes inclusive to diverse facial features.
REFRAMD's commitment to inclusivity goes beyond the mere acknowledgment of diverse facial features. They are actively challenging the prevailing one-size-fits-all approach that has long been entrenched in the design industry. This forward-thinking perspective marks a departure from the conventional norms, aiming to rectify the discrepancies and shortcomings often associated with standardized designs.
As we witness the rise of companies like REFRAMD, we observe a broader shift in design philosophies. The industry is gradually moving away from a homogenized approach, acknowledging the richness of diversity and the multifaceted nature of human anatomy. This departure from the norm signifies a crucial step toward dismantling the systemic biases ingrained in design practices, ensuring that the products created are not just aesthetically pleasing but genuinely inclusive.
As we witness a shift towards more inclusive thinking in various aspects of design, I'm intrigued by how physiognomy and other studies can influence the "frame" through which we see the world. Can objects like eyeglasses offer a glimpse into our history and pave the way for a more inclusive future?
In conclusion, my research is continuing to explore how physiognomy and other studies can shape the "frame" through which we perceive the world. Objects around us offer a glimpse into our history and act as a leaping ground for moving forward more inclusively.
While conversations about race and design are relatively new, having gained more momentum in 2020, the lack of established research and connections fuels my contemplation. Despite seeming farfetched, I believe engaging with the possibility and importance of understanding rooted aesthetics can drive inclusive design. Design, inherently object-focused, may hold the key to a more inclusive future.
Thank you for taking the time to explore these ideas with me. As always, your support and readership are truly appreciated.
Warm regards,
Your Little Mama <3